The Breton shirt, also known as the marinière, is a staple that finds its place in every wardrobe. This iconic piece, sometimes referred to as the Breton top, is like the chameleon of fashion: it adapts to everything, everyone, and every situation. Need a casual look? It’s there. An outfit that’s elegant but not overly formal? Always ready. Yet behind its apparent simplicity lies a rich history full of twists and turns.
At BLUEBUCK, we’ve taken on the mission of reimagining — without ever distorting — this timeless garment, famous for its nautical stripes. Always with a deep respect for its heritage and a clear vision: combining maritime traditions with modern eco-responsibility. Let’s dive into the origins of the marinière.
The history of the marinière: origins and maritime heritage
The humble beginnings of the marinière
There are several stories about the origins of the marinière. One version claims it had “unflattering” beginnings. Long before it symbolized French chic, nautical stripes were associated with prostitutes, prisoners, and other societal outcasts in the 17th century. Another version, more practical, suggests that the marinière, worn by Breton sailors, served to help spot men who had fallen overboard (yes, fluorescent life vests weren’t invented yet). In both cases, it wasn’t exactly glamorous.
The decree that anchored the Breton shirt in history
Everything changed in the 18th century when the French navy made the Breton shirt its ally. On March 27, 1858, a decree officially established the Breton shirt as the uniform for sailors. Why, you ask? Because it ticked all the boxes:
- Practical: a close-fitting cut with no seams to avoid snagging on ropes.
- Warmth and comfort: a knit resistant to sea spray and salty winds.
- Safety: as mentioned earlier, the indigo nautical stripes on a white background made it easier to spot a sailor who had fallen overboard.
And for a fun fact, nothing was left to chance: the marinière had to have exactly 21 white stripes and 20 or 21 blue stripes. Why such a precise number? Officially, no one knows. Unofficially, a legend suggests that 21 represents the number of Napoleon’s victories. We’d bet on the French love for attention to detail.
A working-class piece that crossed borders
The story of the Breton top doesn’t stop at French borders. Sailors worldwide took inspiration from it, each adding their own twist. Interestingly, the first military navy to adopt it in the 19th century — before the French themselves — was the Russian navy. They were quickly followed by the British, then the Dutch.
Thus, the marinière became a symbol of military pride and, more broadly, masculinity and confidence.
From the navy to the runway: a cultural icon
Breaking into fashion: Coco Chanel and the pioneers
In the 1920s, inspired by her seaside getaways, Coco Chanel decided to revolutionize fashion by introducing nautical stripes into women’s wardrobes. Transforming a work garment into a chic piece was a resounding success.
Quickly, the Breton stripes of the marinière became a symbol of luxury and freedom. They inspired the greatest designers: Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, and later Jean-Paul Gaultier, who made it his signature from 1978 onwards.
A symbol of freedom and French style
After World War II, the history of the Breton top took a turn. It established itself as "the garment of paid holidays." People wore their marinière to stroll along the seaside or picnic in the countryside. The Breton top charmed with its simplicity and convinced with its timelessness. Gradually, it crossed eras and genders, becoming in turn a casual top, a chic dress, and even… a trunk with a nautical spirit.
The marinière, BLUEBUCK style
A tribute to the origins of the marinière
At BLUEBUCK, we honor the maritime heritage of the Breton top while giving it a modern twist. We draw inspiration from its origins to create a version faithful to its adventurous and free spirit. Among the values we share with the marinière are:
- Versatility: designed to accompany you everywhere, our underwear adapts just as well to a day at the office as to a seaside walk.
- Timeless style: a simple design that pairs perfectly with raw jeans, summer shorts, or even a blazer.
A commitment to a sustainable future
For us, the sea is more than just an inspiration. It’s a symbol of life, renewal, and responsibility. Without water, without seas and oceans, we simply wouldn’t exist. That’s why our marinières reflect this commitment, with:
- Eco-responsible materials: using GOTS-certified organic cotton.
- Local production: our products are made in Europe, mainly in Portugal, in factories powered by renewable energy.
- Garment longevity: with timeless designs and durable materials, we create products that stand the test of time… much like the marinière itself.
~~~
From a sailor’s uniform to a fashion essential, the origins of the Breton shirt tell a fascinating story. At BLUEBUCK, we are dedicated to respecting this heritage while reimagining it for a more sustainable world.
A marinière is like an invitation to sail between tradition and modernity. Ready to set sail?