Understanding PFAS: between technical performance and environmental burden
PFAS, or per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, encompass several thousand chemical compounds developed to meet one specific need: “performance.” Water-repellent, non-stick, heat-resistant — over just a few decades, they have become silent allies of the textile industry, constantly searching for ever more functional products. You’ll find them in:
- high-performance anoraks,
- sportswear,
- professional uniforms,
- and even everyday garments that discreetly resist stains, moisture, or repeated washing.
But this comes at a cost. PFAS are now classified as “forever chemicals” — they degrade very slowly, if at all, in the environment. Their presence is now detected in the air, water, soil, and even in living organisms. The issue is not just their use but also their persistence, accumulation, and the health consequences that follow. This phenomenon affects all major textile production zones, from the United States to Asia, and is now prompting legislative responses worldwide.
A growing list of health risks
Scientific studies keep piling up, and the outlook isn’t encouraging. PFAS are linked to a wide range of negative health effects:
- hormonal disruption,
- thyroid disorders,
- high cholesterol levels,
- liver damage,
- certain cancers,
- reduced immune response to vaccines,
- low birth weight…
In short, an unsettling health profile for substances still very present in our daily environment. And yet, these compounds are never mentioned on our clothing labels. This invisibility makes collective awareness even more complicated.
Progressive regulation of PFAS: toward a total ban in textiles
Regulation under construction: REACH, action plans, then law
In response to this situation, institutional measures have multiplied. The European Union already regulates certain PFAS under the REACH regulation. But the sprawling nature of this chemical family required a broader approach. In January 2023, five European countries, including France, proposed an extended restriction on all PFAS.
In France specifically, an action plan was unveiled in January 2024, culminating with the adoption of the PFAS Law 2025 in February 2025. This law introduces a progressive ban on PFAS in several product categories, including textiles. The textile industry is directly affected, with very near-term deadlines.
What exactly does the PFAS Law 2025 provide? A tight timeline and near-zero tolerance
Starting January 1, 2026, France will ban the manufacture, import, export, and sale — whether free or for a fee — of any consumer clothing textile product containing PFAS.
Then, starting January 1, 2030, this ban will extend to all textile products, regardless of their intended use or destination.
One nuance: the ban does not apply to products where PFAS concentrations remain below a residual value (yet to be defined). In other words, trace amounts might be tolerated. But the trend is clear: PFAS must go.
And in the United States? A historic step forward, followed by a step back
In 2024, the United States established for the first time drinking water limits for several PFAS compounds via the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). This measure, hailed as a historic public health victory, aimed to better control population exposure to these omnipresent substances.
However, in May 2025, the Trump administration partially rolled back these regulations: only two PFAS remain subject to strict limits, while others no longer have thresholds. This decision sparked major controversy, as PFAS continue to raise serious health concerns.
Pioneering states: the case of California
Indeed, some states are leading the way. California adopted the California Safer Clothes and Textiles Act (AB 1817) as early as 2022, which has prohibited since January 1, 2025, the manufacture, distribution, and sale of new textile products containing intentionally added PFAS. This regulation is quite similar to the PFAS Law 2025 adopted in France. It also requires greater transparency: products still containing PFAS must clearly indicate it on their label. From 2027 onward, tolerance will be reduced even further, with a maximum threshold set at 50 ppm.
Faced with federal inaction or rollbacks, some U.S. states are thus becoming drivers of change — California, for example, sending a strong signal to the rest of the North American textile industry.
What does this mean for the textile industry? Major adjustments ahead
The ban on PFAS will inevitably force the textile industry to rethink its habits — and quickly. These substances are widely used for a reason: they give fabrics a range of technical properties that can be hard to replicate otherwise.
Companies will have to find alternatives, sometimes less high-performing, often more expensive. Wax- or silicone-based treatments are an option, as is using natural fibers with their own technical properties, such as Tencel or merino wool. But these solutions require investment in R&D, industrial adjustments, and sometimes educational efforts to convince consumers that being slightly less water-repellent is not a major catastrophe.
Brand image also comes into play. Moving away from PFAS isn’t just about legal compliance — it’s also about trust and transparency toward an increasingly eco-conscious public.
A transition that won’t be so easy: between economic pressures and technical realities
While the intent is clear, implementing the PFAS Law 2025 promises to be more complex. The Union of Textile Industries (UIT) has already flagged two major concerns: the lack of provisions for clearing existing stock and a French timeline that is more ambitious than the rest of the European Union. These differences could weaken French companies in the face of international competition.
Added to that is the challenge of tracking PFAS in certain global supply chains, making it clear that this transition won’t be uniform. For some businesses, banning PFAS won’t just be a simple paperwork exercise — it’ll mean serious technical and logistical overhauls (which, frankly, wasn’t inevitable: some brands have been doing fine without PFAS from the start — no names mentioned 😉).
The Bluebuck case: consciously ahead of the curve
At Bluebuck, the PFAS ban didn’t trigger any major upheaval. Not because we foresaw it in some secret meeting, but simply because our business model has always been based on avoiding these substances altogether.
Our products — underwear, t-shirts, socks, loungewear — are designed for daily use, in close contact with the skin. So including controversial, persistent substances was never part of our plan. And putting a waterproof layer on underwear? Definitely not on the list either.
Material choices aligned from day one
That’s why our organic cotton is GOTS-certified, a label that guarantees an ethical production chain free of controversial substances — including PFAS. As for Tencel, it’s made from wood pulp, biodegradable, grown without pesticides or intensive irrigation.
A law that confirms a founding principle
This law simply formalizes what we’ve always believed: that it’s possible to design products that are functional, comfortable, and stylish without relying on PFAS. For us, it’s a confirmation, not a constraint. A legal stamp of approval on an ecological intuition. And, if we’re honest, a small satisfaction.
And if other sectors of the textile industry now have to rethink their practices, we welcome them into this new space where technical performance doesn’t exclude environmental responsibility.
And what about the consumer? Rebuilding awareness
Finally, there’s an essential player in all this: the consumer. A shift in mindset also means revisiting some expectations. No, a jacket without PFAS might not repel water like a lotus leaf. Yes, a garment without complex chemical treatments may cost more. And no, that doesn’t automatically mean lower quality.
A few truths to keep in mind:
- A high-performance garment doesn’t need PFAS to be effective.
- PFAS-free clothing may cost more. Raw materials are more expensive. So is development. And yes, that shows up in the price.
- Reading labels isn’t always enough: PFAS are rarely mentioned explicitly.
It’ll take explaining, reassuring, comparing. Helping people understand that performance isn’t just about lab-engineered features, but can also come from thoughtful choices, well-selected materials, and respectful production.
The PFAS Law 2025 marks a turning point for the textile industry, whether it likes it or not. Banning PFAS in France will force businesses to make choices, innovate, and sometimes give up on certain technical shortcuts. But it’s also a chance to rethink products differently, to address consumers in a new way, and perhaps to bring clothing back to a less flashy but more responsible role. As regulations evolve — tightening in Europe, loosening in the United States — the entire global textile chain will have to learn how to move on from PFAS.
At Bluebuck, we believe textile can be sustainable without sacrificing comfort. And if one day the whole world switches to PFAS-free underwear, well, that will already be a win in our book.