We’ve all come across green-colored packaging with a little leaf logo, or an ad promoting a “planet-friendly” product. But behind this eco-friendly façade, the reality is often less flattering. This is what we call greenwashing: a marketing veneer that smells of chlorophyll but hides major contradictions. In this article, we break down the concept, the most common techniques, its impacts, and how to protect yourself from it.
Understanding greenwashing
Definition and origin of the term
The term “greenwashing” first appeared in 1986, coined by environmental activist Jay Westerveld. At the time, he was criticizing the American hotel industry, which under the pretext of asking customers to reuse their towels “for the planet,” was mostly trying to reduce laundry costs.
Since then, the word has come a long way. Initially used confidentially, it is now synonymous with dubious marketing strategies. The NGO CorpWatch defines it as: “the misleading portrayal of polluting companies as friends of the environment.” In short, pretending to be green while really just excelling at storytelling.
A deceptive marketing practice
Greenwashing is a kind of green makeup. Companies often spend more on “sustainable” advertising than on actual environmental action. The toolkit includes vague slogans (“eco-friendly,” “natural”), visuals of green leaves or happy dolphins, and pseudo-eco language designed to reassure the consumer.
Greenwashing around the world: some striking numbers
Sometimes numbers speak louder than words: according to Greenpeace, 39% of “green” claims in fashion and textiles are misleading. Another painful statistic: less than 1% of clothing produced worldwide is actually recycled from old textiles. Most of the “recycled” content in fashion comes… from plastic bottles turned into polyester. Not exactly the virtuous loop we’re promised.
How to recognize greenwashing?
Warning signs
Some red flags are recurring:
- Vague slogans (“environmentally friendly”) with no tangible proof.
- Homemade or meaningless labels.
- Claims highlighting practices… already required by law.
- Disproportionate promises like “carbon neutral,” when no human activity truly is.
The French ADEME summarized this as early as 2012: outright lies, empty words, overly “green” visuals, unsupported claims… basically, anything that smells more like marketing than action.
The most common techniques
- Broad claims: a brand calls itself “eco-friendly” without specifying how.
- Misleading imagery: a field of flowers on packaging that’s mostly plastic.
- Red herring: highlighting a tiny “conscious” collection that represents just 2% of the catalog.
- Irrelevant claims: stating that a product meets a basic legal requirement… as if it were an achievement.
Concrete examples of greenwashing in fashion
A few well-known cases:
- Adidas and its “recycled” Stan Smiths: the claim looked nice on the tag, but only a small part of the shoe was actually made from recycled materials.
- Primark and its big paper “green bags”: yes, the bag is recyclable, but it mostly carries a mountain of clothes made under far less green conditions.
- H&M Conscious, Zara Join Life, Uniqlo Recycled: every giant has its “green capsule,” which represents a tiny fraction of their overall collections. Painting a forest over a desert.
The negative impacts of greenwashing
A brake on ecological transition
Greenwashing clouds the picture. By trusting vague promises, consumers often believe they’re making responsible choices… while unintentionally supporting a polluting system. The result: a general loss of trust and a slowdown of ecological transition. When a brand exaggerates its greenness, it doesn’t just mislead the customer: it also discredits companies genuinely investing to reduce their impact.
A way to dodge responsibility
By multiplying communication campaigns, companies mask their lack of real action. Consumers are falsely reassured, and the company buys time without questioning its production model. It’s a convenient strategy: instead of investing in energy efficiency, better processes, or more sustainable materials, they invest in lush nature visuals. Meanwhile, emissions keep rising.
The legal framework
In the United States, the Federal Trade Commission regulates environmental claims with its “Green Guides,” currently being strengthened by 2025. In Europe, the EmpCo directive (March 2024) will ban vague terms like “eco-friendly” or “biodegradable” by 2026 if not justified. Only certified labels will remain authorized. In short: the free-for-all is ending.
Important nuances
Greenwashing is not always a cynical maneuver. Sometimes it’s just clumsy wording or technical misunderstanding. Still, controversies often arise. A new phenomenon has even emerged: greenhushing. Some companies now prefer not to talk about their environmental actions at all… for fear of being accused of greenwashing.
How to act against greenwashing
Best practices for companies
- Avoid vague terms and unproven claims.
- Always provide verifiable evidence.
- Highlight meaningful actions, not gimmicks.
- And most importantly: actually reduce your impact before communicating about it.
Reflexes for consumers
- Read labels with a critical eye.
- Be wary of vague slogans and too-good-to-be-true promises.
- Look for trusted certifications such as GOTS or Oeko-Tex.
- Favor local or European production, which has a lower carbon footprint than intercontinental shipping.
Our commitments against greenwashing at Bluebuck
At BLUEBUCK, we don’t play the “paint-it-green” game. All our products are made in Europe, using eco-responsible materials: GOTS-certified organic cotton, recycled fibers, or Tencel. Our Portuguese workshops run on renewable energy, with solar panels covering almost 100% of electricity needs.
Our approach is based on durability: no fast-changing collections, no sales, but products designed to last. Every year, we continue to cut our carbon footprint and strengthen our commitments — next step: aiming for B-Corp certification.
And no, we don’t claim to be “carbon neutral.” Climate neutrality doesn’t exist. What we do is concretely reduce our emissions. The difference between a marketing campaign and real commitment? Time, effort, and transparency.
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Greenwashing is a bit like painting over a cracked wall with green paint: it hides the flaws but doesn’t solve the problem. Thankfully, regulations are evolving, consumers are becoming more vigilant, and genuinely committed companies keep moving forward. The key is distinguishing cosmetic communication from concrete action.
At Bluebuck, we’ve chosen to be straightforward: no empty slogans, no “green capsules,” but durable underwear, made in Europe with certified materials. Not perfect, but transparent — and always working to improve.